The touchy feely world of texture

How a piece of jewelry feels is as important to the wearer as how it looks to everybody else. Whether it is running your finger over the metallic grooves of a favorite earring, or feeling the comforting curve of a smooth cabochon, it is easy to lose yourself in playing with textural jewelry. 

Appealing to the talismanic powers of fine jewelry, the following designers celebrate the ever-evocative sense of touch.

A master of texture, New York designer Alex Soldier has made this Coronaria ring with blue topaz, gold and diamonds.

Alex Soldier is a master of texture and his Coronaria blue topaz ring comes alive thanks to his signature decorative finishes. Using his own specially made tools, the New York-based designer builds layer upon layer of pattern by hand upon the gold petals, making a perfect frame for a vibrant blue topaz.  

In this Hannah Martin cocktail ring, the London designer has recreated the intricate, textural beauty of rope. Every tiny detail of this prosaic material has been painstakingly carved by hand from wax, to create a design that is both sinuous and voluminous. One braid is decorated with tiny cognac brown diamonds, and the tiny knot detail at the base of the ring suggests a most luxurious piece of rope has been tied around the finger.

This Wempe Passiflora by Kim ring in rose gold features an abstract, three-dimensional amethyst (£1,930).

Wempe, meanwhile, has created an abstract study of a flower in this amethyst ring – the multiple facets of the three-dimensional stone contrasting with the smooth lines of gold that hold the stone in place. And Nak Armstrong’s three-dimensional earrings are an exceptional tapestry of angles and facets in precious stones, which demonstrate his eye for beautiful combinations of muted colors that tempt you to run your finger over them.

Italian jeweler Marco Bicego conveys texture through his goldsmithing skills. Using the ancient Bullino engraving technique, his new Lunaria collection creates a rich depth to the metal that reflects light beautifully. Although deeply textured, this bold statement necklace is actually light as a feather. 

Finally, fellow Italian jeweler Vhernier creates three-dimensional texture in the Plissé cuff – its rolling hills of gold facets creating a bracelet that would be fit for Wonder Woman.

  • Vhernier Collezione plisse cuff

    Plissé three-dimensional pink gold cuff bracelet


    $ 16,400

  • Marco Bicego Lunaria neck cuff

    Italian jeweler Marco Bicego has created this statement neck cuff for his new Lunaria collection ($6,820).

  • Alex Soldier transformable Coronaria blue topaz ring

    Transformable Coronaria blue topaz ring

    Alex Soldier


  • Nak Armstrong labradorite earrings

    Rustic three-dimensional diamond earrings

    Nak Armstrong

    $ 38,200

  • Wempe Passiflora by Kim ring

    BY KIM Passiflora three-dimensional amethyst ring


    £ 1,930

  • Hannah Martin rope ring

    Textured Rope cocktail ring with brown diamonds

    Hannah Martin

    £ 5,995