Fine Punk London Jewelry Trends

Holly Dyment Momento Mori skull rings adorn london jewelry trends blog
These playful cocktail rings by Canadian designer Holly Dyment just landed in my inbox – a serendipitous encounter given the fact that I have just written reams of copy about the AW2013 catwalk trends and the influence of ‘Punk’ on the Fine Jewellery sector for a bespoke client.

Holly has conjured up a design concoction that’s one part tongue-in-cheek graveside humour, another part homage to the darker side of life, with a generous pinch of over-the-top embellishment and pull-out-the-stops colour. “I’ve always had a more-is-more approach to colour and design,” Dyment says. “This season I’ve taken that to the next level by adding luxe hues of handpainted enamel to my signature mix of brightly coloured, precious and semi-precious gemstones. Then for good measure, I layered in elements of movement, 3-D effects and tactile surfaces.”

Each piece is meticulously handcrafted in 18ct gold and adorned with diamonds and gems and colour pop enamel. Juicy gems such as tsavorite (green), tanzanite (blue) and oversize mandarin garnet decorate the narrative designs. Cirque-big-top striping and punkish, inverted gem settings have become her signature pushing the envelope on detailing to create small works of wearable art sculptures. The result is a collection of jewellery with a big personality – each piece a conversation starter.

And that’s not all, these skull rings are a modern interpretation of ‘Memento Mori’ mourning jewellery and are created using gemstones and colours based on ancient astrological colour charts for the days of the week. With respect to Vermeer, I love ‘the skull with the pearl earring’…

Words: Juliet Hutton-Squire

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