During London Fashion Week a particular show caught my eye, that of Peter Jensen whose models – thanks to their striking sculptural jewellery – became human artworks among the rooms of the Institute of Contemporary Art.
A closer look revealed their earrings to be miniature mobiles, akin to those of current Tate Modern darling Alexander Calder. Beautifully designed in sterling silver and embellished with freshwater pearls and little charms, the pieces were created specially for Peter Jensen by British jeweller Becca Hulbert.
A close-up of Becca Hulbert’s Alexander Calder-inspired earrings for Peter Jensen’s AW16 runway
We caught up with Becca post-show, and she exclusively tells us how the collaboration was born and the speed at which her designs went from initial concept to the surrounds of the ICA.
Adorn Jewellery Blog: How closely did you work with Peter Jensen on the jewellery range – did you visit his studio to develop your design ideas together?
Becca Hulbert: We collaborated before back in 2002, so when Peter got in touch with me again I was thrilled. We had a few conversations regarding the brief and his muses for the runway show – the art collector Peggy Guggenheim and visual artist Alexander Calder. Looking at Calder’s work, it was clear there was natural route to go down for the jewellery.
Peter and I agreed that earrings were the way forward, as the mobile element would need to be hanging and not interfere or get lost among the clothes. We liked the idea of pearls being added for a touch elegance and luxury, and I also included tiny elements of my own work, such as the little bells and coins.
The engine turning to achieve the surface patterns of the pieces was also a suggestion I brought in; the texture of the silver adds a different aspect to the pieces. In the end, I’m thrilled to say the jewellery matched seamlessly with the designs in Peter’s ‘Peggy’ collection.
Becca included signatures of her own work in the collection for Peter Jensen, such as tiny bells and coins
AJB: How many pieces did you produce for the runway?
BH: I was asked to produce 10 pieces in total, though I could easily have carried on making more, as I really got in to the research and exploration of shapes. I designed and made everything within a six-week window. I must like working under pressure!
AJB: Will the pieces be available to buy online or in store?
BH: They will be available online and in stores, though just where and when will be confirmed soon.