Edwardian engagement rings: opulent and feminine

By Åse Anderson

The Edwardian era is known for its lavishness, so it should come as no surprise that vintage engagement rings from this period are some of the most opulent and feminine designs around.

Edwardian engagement rings date back to 1901-1910 when King Edward VII and his elegant wife, Queen Alexandra, were the leaders of the fashionable Belle Époque elite. Usually made from platinum or white gold, Edwardian engagement rings exude romance and often feature elaborate lace or filigree designs, millegrain edges or scrollwork. The introduction of the oxy-acetylene torch made working with platinum much easier and enabled jewellers to create sculptural pieces where the centre stone could be flanked by romantic motifs such as bows, flowers or birds.

In terms of stones, rose-cut or old-cut diamonds were the most prominent gems of the era, often combined with pearls on a platinum band to achieve the fashionable “white on white” effect. While yellow gold Edwardian rings are less common, sometimes rings were crafted from a combination of gold and platinum. Some Edwardian engagement rings also featured coloured gemstones, typically sapphires, moonstones, or pale creamy opals, usually teemed with white diamonds.

Antique Edwardian engagement rings are not easy to come by or cheap, with prices often running into five-figure sums. Bentley & Skinner has a large selection of vintage engagement rings, including some that are typical of the Edwardian era, such as these distinctive diamond and pearl rings dating back to the early 20th century. The vintage and antique jeweller also has a number of rings with coloured gemstones, including an Edwardian opal and diamond cluster ring featuring a diamond surround with millegrain beading.

The Berganza pearl and diamond crossover ring is also a stunning example of an Edwardian engagement ring, while a similar style in 18ct yellow gold and platinum, set with one pink and one yellow sapphire, is perfect if you want a more colourful jewel. Another sapphire and diamond ring from Berganza, dating back to 1910, features a 2.30ct cushion-cut sapphire encircled by old-cut diamonds in a millegrain setting.

The Edwardian engagement ring from Doyle & Doyle New York perfectly demonstrates the all-white look that was so fashionable at the time. It is testament to the skill and craftsmanship of Edwardian jewellers that these vintage designs are so sought after today. For a ring that radiates pure romance and promises to stand the test of time, you can’t go wrong with an Edwardian engagement ring.

This beautiful Edwardian diamond and cultured pearl three-stone ring circa 1910, available at Bentley & Skinner, has a central cultured pearl set between two old brilliant-cut diamonds, all vertically set, to a gold open-backed mount with diamond-set shoulders.
This beautiful pearl and diamond crossover Edwardian engagement ring circa 1910 is available at Berganza. A platinum ring set with one central natural pearl and one round old-cut diamond in a claw setting, with outward scrolled, inward tapered, shoulders set with 12 round, rose-cut diamonds in millegrain bead settings on a D-section shank.
Antique diamond rings that pack as much beauty and exquisite detail as this circa 1905 one, available at 1stdibs, are becoming more rare with each passing day. Featuring a central old European-cut diamond between a pair of similarly cut diamonds, on a slightly domed mount decorated by millegrain pierced work, and 10 smaller diamonds, mounted in platinum, is truly unique.
This fancy colour two-stone sapphire crossover Edwardian engagement ring circa 1910 is available at Berganza. Set with an old-cut natural unenhanced yellow Ceylon sapphire and a natural unenhanced peach Ceylon sapphire, both cushion-shaped, the ring is further set with eight round single-cut diamonds to the shoulder, and is marked yellow gold and platinum.
This Edwardian platinum and diamond ring featuring an old European-cut diamond, circa 1915, with a later shank, is available at 1stdibs. The old European brilliant-cut diamond is set within the original octagonal platinum frame, set with 24 round diamonds. The later shank is set with 7 round brilliant-cut diamonds on each shoulder.
This Edwardian marquise sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring circa 1910, available at Berganza, is set with a marquise shape, old-cut, natural unenhanced sapphire, encircled by a single row of round, old, single-cut diamonds of varying sizes, with a further set to the shoulders, and yellow gold with platinum settings.
This Edwardian engagement ring circa 1915, available at Doyle & Doyle, centres an old European-cut diamond, additionally set with 12 single-cut diamonds, and four old European-cut diamonds, in an ornate, filigree and swag design with engraved shoulders, fashioned in platinum.
This Edwardian engagement ring with a central heart-shaped diamond circa 1900, available at 1stdibs, is flanked with old mine-cut side stones, and set in a handmade 18 carat gold and platinum setting, typical of the turn of the century.
This Edwardian opal and diamond cluster ring circa 1910, available at Bentley & Skinner, has an oval cabochon opal set in the centre of an eight-cut, diamond-set surround, millegrain-set, with diamond-set shoulders.
A beautiful Edwardian pearl and diamond crossover ring circa 1910, available at Bentley & Skinner, with a natural pearl, set asymmetrically beside an old brilliant-cut diamond in white, to a yellow gold mount with old brilliant-cut, diamond-set curved shoulders and reeded shank.