It’s been creeping into jewellery for a little while now… Hints of tropical colour here, a mixture of gemstone cuts there. Now, brought together in collections of vivid jewellery – from ear climbers to bold gemstone necklaces – the vogue for luscious jewels is everywhere.
The fresh, summer tones of the recent Portofino capsule collection by Dolce & Gabbana have leant themselves perfectly to embellished sandals and belts within the collection, where pear-shaped, round and emerald cut crystals are set at angles, side-by-side. Carried into fine jewellery, Loren Stewart has gone small but perfectly formed with a collection of three-stone rings set with contrasting gem cuts and hues. At the opposite extreme, Nina Runsdorf statement ring jostles for attention with a 5.41ct opal at its centre and a surround of white diamonds, smaller opals, emeralds and sapphires.
Top-Bottom: Sandals, bikini and belt all by Dolce & Gabbana; three stone sapphire and pearl ring by Loren Stewart; opal and multi gemstone ring by NSR Nina Runsdorf
These jewel-like embellishments are also celebrated in the recent Boutique Moschino collection, where giant pearls and faceted gems in pink, green and purple wrap themselves around printed shell coats and oversized tees. At your feet, Sophia Webster’s emerald green Lola Gem pumps place jewel-tone crystals centre stage, set proud across the toe.
T-shirt and shell coat, both Boutique Moschino, Lola Gem shoes by Sophia Webster; tourmaline, sapphire and amethyst ear climbers by Missoma
Scaled down to jewellery form, the clashing colours, array of gemstone cuts and beautifully erratic positioning of each stone becomes ever more wearable. Missoma’s latest collection of on-trend gemstone ear jackets and ear climbers features stones that inch their way around and about the ear with contrasting iolite, tourmaline and lemon quartz gemstones. Says Missoma creative director Marisa Hordern: “The new collection features fun gemstone colours; they’re delicate but bright and we love the way we have taken the ear jacket trend and made it all about gemstones. They’re also really collectable as you can wear them singularly or you can mix-and-match your jacket sets with various studs.”
Certainly the trend for luscious jewels is more about having fun than taking gemstones too seriously. For Mexican designer Daniela Villegas, this has translated as her Candy Land necklace and Sugar Sugar cuff, where watermelon tourmalines (fading between berry pink and deep green), sit alongside south sea pearls, tanzanites, yellow sapphires and fire opals.
Likewise, Brazilian designer Fernando Jorge continues to explore cut and colour with his signature style of angular gemstone setting. His tactile Fusion earrings sit as studs on drop from the ear, bold ruby gems here, or softer, paler topaz and diamonds there.
Top-bottom: Sugar Sugar cuff and Candy Land necklace, both Daniela Villegas; ruby and rose gold Fusion earrings by Fernando Jorge
Hordern explains how this phenomenon for luscious gems comes from a desire to be a little more offbeat with how jewellery is worn. “[People] often don’t want matchy-matchy colours in jewellery, but something that offsets them,” she says. “We’ve seen a real trend for rainbow colours [in jewellery] but I always think that is more to do with it being in the zeitgeist than anything pre-planned. At the moment, I am obsessed with multicoloured sapphires – such an amazing and bright kaleidoscope of colour.”