Bejewelled Treasures at the V&A

“There is no place on Earth where they do gem studding better than here,” wrote Persian ambassador Abd ur-Razzaq Samarqandi during a trip to India in 1442. The splendour of Indian jewellery and abundance of coloured gemstones at the local bazaars had captured his imagination, and it has done so again but for a whole new audience with Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection at the V&A.

There are more than 100 objects to be discovered within the exhibition: fascinating examples of historic Indian gems, extravagant emerald jewellery and other unusual bejewelled trinkets. The majority comes from the private collection of His Highness Sheikh Hamad Bin Abdullah Al-Thani, with some on loan from other collectors such as Queen Elizabeth II.

Diamond turban jewel made for the Maharaja of Nawanagar in 1907; remodelled in 1935. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

The treasure trove is vast, ranging from heavily gem-set sword handles and bejewelled turban brooches of the Mughul courts, to loose diamonds such as the Arcott II – a 17.21ct pear-shaped internally flawless stone from the Golconda mines in India, which was gifted to Queen Charlotte in 1767 and later owned and recut by Harry Winston.

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As well as traditional Indian jewellery, there are also European examples inspired by traditional Indian goldsmithing techniques such as gemstone carving, gold enamelling and kundan – a method of setting gems directly into gold.  

Also on display is a range of Cartier jewellery, the brand having fallen under India’s spell in the 1920s. One example is a platinum and gold belt brooch that fans out from a large octagonal emerald weighing nearly 39ct, featuring rich blue sapphire and emerald cabochons and diamonds edged with a border of calibré-cut sapphires.

Pendant brooch set with diamonds and rubies by Bhagat, Mumbai. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

There is also a section titled Contemporary Masters to highlight the continuing influence of traditional Indian jewellery, with a particular focus on the work of JAR and Viren Bhagat. The V&A is displaying a JAR brooch created in 2002 that references Mughal architecture, with a central emerald stone held in place between two sheets of rock crystal, and a white agate background and diamond- and ruby-set frame. The exhibition also marks the debut of a rare video interview with Bhagat.

Read more about the rise in popularity of brooches 

“I know I speak for everyone concerned with this marvellous project when I say how grateful we are to His Highness Sheikh Hamad Bin Abdullah Al-Thani for generously making his unique collection available to the public,” says Nicholas Snowman, chairman of Wartski, which has sponsored the exhibition. “It focuses a new and very bright light on the delicate art of the jeweller, and will amaze and inspire those lucky enough to see it.”

Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection, sponsored by Wartski, runs from 21 November 2015 to 28 March 2016 at the V&A Museum in London.

  • Bhagat Indian pendant brooch with diamonds and rubies

    Pendant brooch set with diamonds and rubies by Bhagat, Mumbai. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Mughal Empire carved emerald bead

    Carved emerald bead, probably 18th century, from the Mughal Empire. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Mughal Empire spinel and pearl necklace

    Spinel and pearl necklace from the Mughal Empire. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Mughal Empire dagger with jade hilt

    Dagger with jade hilt, circa 1629-36, from the Mughal Empire. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Hyderabad ceremonial jewelled sword jewelled with gold hilt

    Ceremonial sword with jewelled gold hilt, circa 1880-1900, from Hyderabad, South India. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Mughal Empire jade crutch handle in gold

    Jade crutch handle with precious stones set in gold, 18th century, from the Mughal Empire. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Silk wword sash with jewelled gold fittings

    Silk sword sash with jewelled gold fittings, circa 1900, India. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Cartier brooch with emeralds, sapphires and diamonds

    Cartier brooch set with emeralds, sapphires and diamonds, circa 1922. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Arcot II diamond

    Arcot II diamond, circa 1760, modified in 1959 and 2011 in India. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Gold and diamond hair ornament

    Gold and diamond hair ornament, circa 1900. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • Tipu Sultan throne

    Gold finial from Tipu Sultan’s throne, circa 1790-1800. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014. Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd 

  • JAR emerald brooch, on show at the Bejewelled Treasures exhibition at the V&A

    Emerald brooch, JAR Paris, 2002, on show as part of the Al Thani Collection at the V&A. © Servette Overseas Limited 2014 Photograph: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd

SOURCE:http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/jewellery/article/bejewelled-treasures-indian-jewellery-v-and-a-london-cartier-jar/